Europe’s top six winter mountain getaways
We choose beautiful and tranquil locations to put on snowshoes, ski uncrowded pistes, and embrace winter, from the Arctic Circle to Slovenia’s Julian Alps.
1. Italy’s old-school glamour
I normally don’t like marketing slogans, but even I can’t dispute with Cortina d’Ampezzo’s nickname, “Queen of the Dolomites.” This historic ski town in the northwest of the Veneto region exudes a sense of royalty that is typified by its elegant Corso Italia, a pedestrianized avenue and popular spot for passeggiata gatherings.
But it’s those enormous Dolomites that always captivate me. They are huge, snow-stained pieces of limestone and sedimentary rocks that rise through the Ampezzo valley and become a lovely shade of pink when the sun sets.
A lot of tourists travel to Cortina to buy, eat, drink, and walk the charming streets because of its old-school elegance and glitz. As a result, there is more space on the mountains for hikers, skiers, and snowshoeers like me to enjoy the splendor of these peaks.
“As the sun sets, those enormous dolomites that rise through the Ampezzo valley take on a lovely pink hue.”
Many of Cortina’s tallest peaks are accessible by cable cars and gondolas, such as the 3,244-meter-tall Tofana di Mezzo, which was featured in the 1981 James Bond movie For Your Eyes Only. From the observation deck, you can enjoy breathtaking vistas.
For a hot chocolate at what was advertised as the highest pizzeria in Europe (2,470 meters) with a view of the towering peaks, I jumped off at Ra Valles, the penultimate station on the cable car.
The Super 8 is a major attraction for skiers. The figure-of-eight circuit is undoubtedly for intermediates and up, but non-skiers can experience some of its breathtaking scenery by riding the chairlift from Bai de Dones to Cinque Torri, which has 11 rocky columns in the middle of a snowy expanse, not just five towers as the name implies, and where there is a snowshoe trail and an outdoor hot tub at Rifugio Scoiattoli (beds from €85pp).
For greater health in the mountains One of the highest outdoor saunas in Europe (€25 per person) may be found at Rifugio Lagazuoi at Lagazuoi (accessible by gondola, €150 B&B). Similar to Cinque Torri, Lagazuoi and the surrounding peaks were the sites of fighting between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies during World War I. The trenches and tunnels have been reconstructed to form immersive outdoor museums.
Doubles at the Hotel Columbia in Cortina d’Ampezzo start at €175 B&B.
2. A spa with a view in Austria
The Gastein valley glistens beneath a new layer of snow as the light peeks above the Hohe Tauern mountains. A day like cut crystal is revealed when wisps of cloud rise from the shadowy veins of the spruce woodland. And as I sip coffee in my robe at Haus Hirt in Bad Gastein, I can see the entire beautiful lot via the picture windows. Breakfast is served till eleven a.m. Wait.
In the 1930s, authors Thomas Mann and Stefan Zweig were influenced by Haus Hirt’s captivating views from its eerie height above the treetops. This little hotel is a stylish renovation of an Alpine lodge that combines natural elements like granite and larch wood with a sleek, contemporary style (thanks to co-owner architects Ike Ikrath and Japanese interior designer Elma Choung). My days are filled with yoga, peaceful dinners, and mood-enhancing dives in the Aveda spa, which faces the mountains.
“In the 1930s, authors Thomas Mann and Stefan Zweig were influenced by Haus Hirt’s captivating views from its eerie height above the treetops.
Ascending steep, forested cliffs, splattered by a thunderous waterfall with a 341-meter vertical drop, and overlooking some of Austria’s highest peaks, this spa town gained notoriety in the 19th century for the therapeutic properties of its radon-tainted waters.
After filtering through Hohe Tauern’s deep rock layers over three millennia, five million liters of water now emerge daily from 17 springs. During the town’s belle epoque heyday, German painter Max Liebermann, Schubert, Klimt, and Empress Elisabeth flocked here for the cure.
As I ride snowshoes through the Angertal valley in calm excitement, listen to the snow falling softly from the trees, and soak in the bath-warm thermal pools of Felsentherme Gastein in silence as the mountains sparkle pearl white and steam rises in the blue darkness, I can understand why Bad Gastein impacted so many.
Even though Bad Gastein is located in the Alps, you may still appreciate its beauty without skiing; simply focus on the tranquility of the winter scenery and allow the enchanted waters to do their magic.
Haus Hirt provided accommodations. Full-board, small doubles from €220 per night, haus-hirt.com
3. In Switzerland, sledding and snowshoeing
Switzerland most resembles a child’s picture of the Alpstein massif in the Appenzell Alps. This area, 40 miles east of Zurich, is dotted with snow-brimmed barns and steeple-like peaks, and over snowbanks, ghostly tracks vanish.
I travel up into the mountains from Appenzell, the largest town in the area, every winter to ski, snowshoe, and eat meat and raclette cooked on a stone-slab steingrill. The Alpstein, which is crowned by Säntis at 2,501m, is a work of true Alpine theater, and there’s something about the area that makes it ideal for tiny excursions.
A cozy wooden mountain guesthouse like Hoher Hirschberg, which appears to have been unchanged for decades, is what I would suggest staying at. Bright, plainly furnished rooms are located inside, above the pine-clad restaurant (the veal sausage with fried-onion-topped cheese spätzle is quite outstanding).
From the windows, you can see the Alpstein’s ridged horns punching out of the valleys below, white in the distance. A 150-meter uphill snowshoe is required for check-in because the final stretch of road to the guesthouse is closed in deep snow.
For a more extended adventure, a four-mile path stretches from the vicinity of Appenzell through forested hillsides all the way to the guesthouse; the trick is to bring a sledge so you can quickly descend again.
The two-mile snowshoe to Eggli, a historic working farm, for lunch is well worth the trek from the valley bottom. A Quöllfrisch Hell beer and wurst-käse salad, along with Appenzeller cheese and sausage, is what I’m having.
“Enjoy chocolate cake drenched in Säntis Malt whisky and rösti the size of frying pans at the Lakeview restaurant.”
The biggest ski resort in the valley, Ebenalp, is accessible by cable car seven miles south of Hoher Hirschberg (return ticket £34). A fantastic rotating restaurant (£36 return) may be found at the top of Hoher Kasten, which is reached to the east by another cable car.
The summit trail can be completed in 30 minutes, but I believe it’s preferable to snowshoe the four-mile out-and-back route from the cable car base station to the 1,209-meter-high Plattenbödeli mountain hotel, which has a view of the blue-grey Sämtisersee Lake. I think it’s a more magnificent view than the Matterhorn.
The Plattenbödeli will be deserted, much like most of the Alpstein. Enjoy chocolate cake drenched in Säntis Malt whisky and rösti the size of frying pans at the Lakeview restaurant. Fortunately, it’s made by Brauerei Locher, from where your quest started, down in the valley below, under the Appenzell lights, and it’s tapped from a barrel of muscatel.
On weekends exclusively in January, February, and April, Plattenbödeli offers doubles starting at £134 B&B. Doubles at Hoher Hirschberg start at £134 B&B.
4. The magic of winter in the Arctic Circle, Norway
The only sound to break the stillness was the crackle and hiss of logs as I was encased in the warm embrace of a wood barrel sauna. I peered across the pewter glimmer of a frigid fjord from its glass-fronted end. The ridges of the snow-capped mountains were gilded by the afternoon light on the distant side.
I persuaded myself that I would take a plunge in that big ice bath later and allow the cold to waken and pinch my body pink. For the time being, though, I would stay a little longer and enjoy that peaceful hunkering down that is unique to winter and is known to the Norwegians as kos.
This philosophy emphasizes the juxtaposition between coziness and coldness, of icy adventures followed by fireside getaways, much to the Danish idea of hygge. Vesterålen Apartments offers both. These three self-catering homes are situated along a fjord and provide “calm luxury in the wilderness” next to Klakksjorda, a hamlet on the untamed Vesterålen archipelago.
Though much less frequented, Vesterålen, which lies just north of the Lofoten islands, is a master of winter magic. The polar night, which lasts from late November to late January up here, 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, produces lavender-hued daylight that is ideal for kayaking, moose safaris, and snowshoeing. Additionally, the likelihood of viewing the aurora is very high.
“The five pairs of white-tailed sea eagles that nest in the inlet are fed mackerel by visitors aboard a rigid inflatable boat.”
Additionally, visitors (clad in windproof onesies) are taken out on a rigid inflatable boat by apartment owner Henrik Hvashøj and his wildlife guide Ian Robins to feed mackerel to the five pairs of white-tailed sea eagles that nest along this inlet. Henrik’s family has owned this piece of coastline for three generations, and the apartments’ walls are adorned with pictures of his mother.
During my recent exploration trip with Discover the World, I coupled my stay here with a journey north of 80 minutes to the hamlet of Nyksund, which is tucked away at the base of Nyken Mountain. This little fishing outpost was a ghost town thirty years ago.
Expect amazing aurora displays as a group of 22 locals have gradually brought life back to the car-free village, which is shared with a group of kittiwakes and has just one lamppost.
While there are day visitors in the summer, visiting in the winter gives you the chance to interact with locals and experience the kos. I joined a seal safari, enjoyed some amazing hiking along a section of the Queen’s Trail, a strenuous nine-mile trek through the Møkland mountains, learned about two local female artists at the bijou Nyksund Art Gallery, and sipped coffee and munched on hot waffles at the homely antiques cafe, Delpen.
Discover the World organized the trip, which costs £1,451 per person and includes a 7-night stay in Nyksund and Vesteralen Apartments.
5. Skiing and song in the French Alps
I found myself alone outside the off-piste stone house after a powder-soft descent to the glade overlooking the valley of Les Bellevilles. The only indication of life was a sliver of smoke coming from its chimney, and there were not many tracks in the snow.
I saw a big wood-fired hot tub with a fresh layer of snow on the top and steps. My heartbeat accelerated. Beside it, a sign with a single word was hammered onto a birch ornamental archway. “Avoidance.”
A few years ago, a mountain guide who had spent his whole life in the Savoie told me about Le Trait d’Union refuge above Saint-Martin-de-Belleville. Amazingly, it is located in the middle of Les 3 Vallées, the largest ski region in the world, at 1,725 meters, nestled in a forest.
Further up the Tarentaise valley are the mega resorts of Val Thorens and Les Menuires. A downhill piste roller coaster runs down the other side of Meribel, which is up and over the Roc de Fer, the “iron rock” col.
“There’s time for a Nordic tub bath and stargazing as you gaze across the valley to the deep ridges beyond.”
There are plenty of winter activities for people of all ages and skill levels thanks to this dynamic terrain. Here, ice climbing, dog sledding, tobogganing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and ski touring are all considered sacred native practices.
Up a little stairway above the counter-bar and small restaurant, which are also accessible to non-guests, are three comfortable bedrooms within the shelter. You can get up early and go skiing or snowshoeing before the cockerels have even woken up. Afterwards, the only things left to do are bathe in the Nordic spa and gaze at the ridges beyond the valley.
According to owner Vivian Hudry, the goal was to transform the former family cottage into something that would provide her with a new sense of direction. “What I do has a selfish component,” she remarked. It was really tough to have this apartment empty after my spouse passed away. It was empty after being for us. My existence became completely meaningless. Currently, those who stay are reviving that life.
It is, in fact, a wonderful place to be. When a plate of diots aux crozets (buckwheat pasta with wine-boiled sausage on top) arrived for lunch, Vivian took on the role of an entertainment. She distributed lyric sheets in the manner of a Sunday School minister and started off with a lively performance of the well-known song Étoile des Neiges from the 1930s on her accordion.
French skiers and vacationers soon filled the small haven with song. After La Vie en Rose, there were a few shots of génépi, a Savoie aperitif made with herbs. Dinner is a similar, albeit much more drowsy, experience after that and a dip in the tub under the stars. I’ll remember to drink less wine and more water the next time.
I had the impression that this was the Tarentaise on rewind because of the abundance of chic hotels, self-catering apartments, ski packages, and hip nightclubs in this supernova-shaped valley. And what a thrilling experience.
Saint-Martin-de-Belleville offered the trip. Four-person rooms at Refuge le Trait d’Union start at €95 per person, half-board (minimum two-night stay). A one-day ski pass for the Les Menuires/Saint-Martin-de-Belleville combined ski region starts at €64.
6. Snowy hikes in Slovenia
I felt like I was flying since I was riding so quickly. The Julian Alps towered above me, their snow-capped summits mirrored in the glacial lake below. The extremely sure-footed Icelandic horses are ideal for traversing this steep landscape.
I would come here to reset as it’s based near Lake Bohinj, which is roughly 50 kilometers from the capital, Ljubljana. I made a wise choice because Slovenians vacation here, and the winter months are especially beautiful.
After a few hours of riding through the valley and up into the mountains, we stopped to rest the horses, though my pony, Lila, didn’t seem tired. One of the most reasonably priced ski destinations in Europe is the Vogel resort, which is accessible by cable car from the lake. However, there are also fantastic snowy walks for those who do not want to ski.
“A local guide brought me out while the snow was still falling. Bears, wolves, and lynx can be found in the forests surrounding the lake.”
As new snow fell, local guide Grega Šilc brought me out into the forests that encircle the massive glacial lake, which are home to lynx, wolves, and bears. On our way back, we stopped at a mountain lodge for coffee and a piece of blackberry pie.
We spent hours walking along the path of the River Mostnica to the waterfall at the end of the Voje valley.
All sounds in these old woods were muted by the snow. It was one of the most beautiful treks I’ve ever been, despite the fact that we didn’t see any incredible animals. I could make out the 2,243-meter Draški Vrh peak in the distance.
“It looks like a mountain children would draw,” Grega remarked. He added that the Pokljuka plateau, which is located just above the Bohinj valley, is the best area to go cross-country skiing.
Cozy self-catering chalets and traditional mountain huts are available for a more rustic stay in the communities surrounding the lake; however, keep in mind that they sometimes do not accept credit or debit cards. However, returning to Hotel Bohinj seemed like a well-earned reward after spending the entire day outside in the cold.
It is brand-new, exquisitely designed, incredibly comfy, and features a spa right on the lakeshore. There was a fire in the lobby and sheepskin furs all over the place, but my favorite place was a small library on the mezzanine floor, where I had a glass of Slovenian wine and stretched my aching legs.
I saw the mountain outlines turn to charcoal in the darkness as the snow outside fell into the lake.
You May Like: Like the BMW i5 M60 EVs may be enjoyable
